The Study of Texture Perception of Hand-Woven Fabric for Textile Design

• Material Type: 博士論文
• Title: The Study of Texture Perception of Hand-Woven Fabric for Textile Design
• Author/Editor: PHOOPHAT, PITHALAI
• Author Heading: PHOOPHAT, PITHALAI
• Publication Date: 2018-03-26
• Publication Date (W3CDTF): 2018-03-26
• Alternative Title: テキスタイルデザインに向けた手織物の風合い認知に関する研究
• Degree grantor/type: 京都工芸繊維大学
• Date Granted: 2018-03-26
• Dissertation Number: 甲第882号
• Degree Type: 博士（学術）
• Text Language Code: eng
• Subject Heading: Visual Texture; Visual Impression; Natural Texture; Human Vision; Hand-spun yarn; Machine-spun yarn; Slub yarn; Cotton yarn; Handloom woven fabric; Mechanical Properties; Surface Properties; Design Strategy; Design Principles; Aesthetic Perception
• Target Audience: 一般
• Note (General): type:Thesis; Thai hand-woven cotton fabric was the material to analyze a texture perception. The consumers’ perception towards both tactile and visual textures of hand-woven fabric was investigated. The ultimate goal is to provide informative guidelines for the hand-woven fabric design, which will improve the fabric quality as well as unique end-use application. Firstly, the mechanical and surface properties of Thai fabric samples were measured with the Kawabata evaluation system to obtain the characteristic values, which representing approximate tactile perception towards fabrics. Using hand- spun yarn in the weft direction of the woven fabric affected the surface irregularity which producing more space between yarns. The space between yarn affected the air resistance value. When compare the air resistance value of hand-woven fabric to the reference, the values were in the range of summer suiting materials, despite its large thickness. However, all characteristic values compared with the reference values showed that most of the Thai handloom-woven fabrics have higher stiffness, crispness, and anti-drape values than reference, which were not suitable for suiting fabrics. Secondly, the factors that affect the visual aesthetic perception of hand-woven fabrics were investigated by performing two psychological experiments. A free sorting task followed by multidimensional scaling and cluster analysis showed that visual categorization of the fabrics depended on yarn type (hand-spun, machine-spun, and slub yarn) and fabric thickness. A semantic differential scaling method followed by generalized linear mixed-effects modeling revealed the association between the yarn type and visual aesthetic perception expressed by functional and aesthetic words. Visual aesthetic perception of fabrics was also affected by the consumers’ gender and nationality. Thirdly, the validity of a “cross-material” design strategy was examined to confirm whether this strategy gives the consumers the visual impression that the designer intended. Woven fabrics and tree barks images were compared on visual textural perception in two psychological experiments. In the first experiment, fabrics were grouped based on textural resemblance, then each group was matched visually to tree barks images. In the second experiment, the fabrics and barks image were ranked separately based on seven adjective pairs related to design principles. The findings of the second experiment were consistent with the results of the first experiment. Therefore, the “cross-material” design analysis proved to provide empirical support for design strategy. Finally, the findings provided useful guidelines for the hand-woven fabric design, which can be adopt by weavers in villages, designers, textile engineers, and scholars who interested in hand-woven fabric.
• Format (IMT): application/pdf
• Source: fulltext; http://repository.lib.kit.ac.jp/repo/repository/10212/2477/D1-0882_h1.pdf; http://repository.lib.kit.ac.jp/repo/repository/10212/2477/D1-0882.pdf
• Access Restrictions: インターネット公開
• Data Provider (Database): 国立情報学研究所 : 学術機関リポジトリデータベース（IRDB）（機関リポジトリ）; https://irdb.nii.ac.jp
• Original Data Provider (Database): 京都工芸繊維大学 : ＫＩＴ学術成果コレクション